Membership Requirements-
Membership is open to individuals interested in the portrayal of the soldiers of the 42nd Canadian Battalion
(Royal Highlanders of Canada) during World War I.
Members must meet the following personal and uniform standards:
- Be reasonably physically fit and able to participate and withstand the physical aspects of trench warfare and an infantryman’s life.
- Maintain grooming standards of the period, i.e. short haircut, neatly trimmed mustaches, no beards, etc.
- Always act in a respectful manner towards the memory of the men we portray, their comrades and their foes.
- Must secure the basic uniform and kit of the impression with one year of joining the unit.
- Must be willing to participate in work weekends at the event site and regional uniform displays and events.
- Maintain your membership dues within the unit and the Great War Historical Society.
- Respect the rules set by the host organization Great War Historical Society.
- Conduct yourself in a safe manner in regards to yourself and others at all times.
Membership is open to individuals interested in the portrayal of the soldiers of the 42nd Canadian Battalion
(Royal Highlanders of Canada) during World War I.
Members must meet the following personal and uniform standards:
- Be reasonably physically fit and able to participate and withstand the physical aspects of trench warfare and an infantryman’s life.
- Maintain grooming standards of the period, i.e. short haircut, neatly trimmed mustaches, no beards, etc.
- Always act in a respectful manner towards the memory of the men we portray, their comrades and their foes.
- Must secure the basic uniform and kit of the impression with one year of joining the unit.
- Must be willing to participate in work weekends at the event site and regional uniform displays and events.
- Maintain your membership dues within the unit and the Great War Historical Society.
- Respect the rules set by the host organization Great War Historical Society.
- Conduct yourself in a safe manner in regards to yourself and others at all times.
42nd BATTALION, BLACKWATCH- ROYAL HIGHLANDERS OF CANADA UNIFORM & KIT LIST
UNIFORM-
I. Pattern 1902 Tunic (1907 Wartime Pattern)
The uniform tunic is a loose fitting wool garment with a "roll" collar, two patch pockets on the breast and two lower pockets on the skirts. The 1902 pattern coat went through several refinements until 1907 then remained unchanged throughout the First World War. The 1907 variant is often referred to as the “wartime pattern.” This is the pattern almost all vendors reproduce. Also we substitute the standard infantry Kings Crown buttons for Black Watch regimental buttons, which can be separately purchased from vendors as well.
(See the vendors page).
You may think that since we’re Highlanders we should have the “Scottish Pattern” cutaway tunic instead of the standard British Infantry type. You would be wrong. The cutaway tunic disappeared in the trenches by 1916 due to wartime shortages and re-supply limitations. All of our battles will take place in 1918 (so the Yanks can participate) and therefore we will stick to the British Infantry pattern.
II. Government Tartan Kilt (Black Watch)
This is the most unique and recognizable item of our impression. You can try to find a real 1940’s or 1950’s British Government MOD issue kilt on eBay or perhaps from a militaria dealer in England. However, they are hard to find and expensive. (By the way, the current issue British MOD kilts are for “walking out” only and are of lighter weight and wool/polyester. Not the same as the older, proper MOD heavy kilts. Avoid them.) So I’m going to strongly suggest you simply purchase a new “reproduction” kilt from Jerry Lee’s “What Price Glory.” They are excellent and cost $300.00. No one else reproduces them.
III. Khaki Kilt Cover
A canvas cover worn over your regimental kilt to protect it from mud, barbed wire, and the elements. It has a single flapped pocket on the front and ties at the waist for size adjustment. This is an essential piece of kit, and required in the trenches.
IV. British Grayback Shirt
The standard World War One gray woolen pullover shirt with white cotton facing worn by all British and most Commonwealth soldiers.
V. Tam O’Shanter With Red Hackle
Whenever you’re not wearing your helmet, you’ll wear this. A standard Khaki wool balmoral with a Red Hackle.
VI. Knee Socks & Red Garter Flash
As Highlanders we wear “long hose” with red “flashes” under the turn down. Alternatively, you could substitute “hose tops” (essentially a long knitted woolen tube) over regular socks, with the flash as above.
VII. Ankle Puttees
Highlanders wear the short ankle length puttees to cover our boot tops. We do not wear the long standard infantry puttees. We’re special.
VIII. Ammo Boots Black Pebble grain or smooth leather without a toe cap, or late war “rough outs” of the same pattern. Leather soles with hobnails. No rubber soles allowed. There are two sources for these below.
EQUIPMENT I. Pattern 1908 (P08) Web Gear
Waist Belt
Cross Straps--Braces
Left and Right Ammo pouches
Bayonet Frog
Helve Holder
E-tool Carrier
Small Pack
Water Bottle Carrier
Large Pack
Large Pack Straps
Water Bottle
E-tool and Helve (handle)
II. Brodie Helmet Any of the WWI pattern Brodie helmets are fine. Look for one with a good liner that fits your head. Leather support straps can be replaced.
III. No.1 Mk.III Enfield You will want either an Enfield No.1 Mk.III or a BAS Co. (licensed by Enfield) No.1 Mk.III, preferably wartime dated or earlier. Make certain the gun store you buy it from has certified it in “shooting” condition.
III.A. No.1 Mk.III Enfield Field Expedient Cleaning Tool This little item is an absolutely essential piece of kit to keep your Enfield functioning in the dirt and sand of the trenches. It’s called a “Shaving Brush.” Buy one, tie a cord around it and wear it round your neck so you’ll always know where it is. At our battle site, after about ten rounds your Enfield will thoroughly jam, rendering you useless and frustrated unless you keep wiping the bolt and breech clear of sand. Ask us how we know…
IV. Mills Web Gear Rifle Sling WW2 dated ones are fine and are identical to those of the First World War. Just make sure that you get one with brass ends. Stay away from the ones with blackened ends, those are post WW2 and wrong.
V. Water Bottle Blue enamel British water bottle with a khaki cover. That’s the proper Great War type. The green enamel water bottles are WW2 era. If you can’t find a Great War type, buy a WW2 era blue RAF canteen, cut off the blue/gray RAF cover and replace it with a reproduction khaki army one.
VI. E-tool and Helve (handle)
WW2 era ones are acceptable but you will need to make sure that the handle you get is early war. On the late war models the handle has a metal lug for the spike bayonet, so it can be used as a mine detector. Stay away from those, or cut the metal lug off.
VII. 303 Brit Charger Clips Each holds 5 rounds and will fit three to each pouch of the ammo pouches. So the total you can fit into the pouches is 30 (150 rounds).
VIII. Small Box Respirator and Bag
Standard canvas gas mask bag and respirator for our 1918 era events. Reproductions are available. You will need one. When the Germans launch “mustard gas” or worse, “chlorine gas” at us (yellow or green smoke grenades) you must put on your mask immediately or you are considered “killed.” And they really enjoy popping gas on us. A lot. Get a gas mask.
VIII A. PH Helmet (Hood Type)/PH Hypo Helmet (Hood Type)
These are both precursors of the Small Box Respirator. Reproductions are currently being manufactured by Man The Line. (see vendors). Small box Respirators are preferred for authenticity reasons (the PH hoods were rare or nonexistent by 1918) but these are less expensive and so we will consider them “acceptable” for events.
IX. Bayonet British Enfield Pattern 1907 Bayonet. You want the scabbard to have the tear drop lug. Look for one with a WWI production date (in addition to the “1907” pattern date that is stamped on all of them).
X. WWI Mess Tin And Mess Tin Cover
The "D" shape mess tin made from the 1850’s through WWI. This was standard issue to British troops. Reproduction mess tins and canvas covers are available.
Recommended but Not Required:
I. WWI British Great Coat A single breasted heavy wool coat with a back belt, two epaulettes, and two slash hand-warmer pockets. It’s very cold where we reenact in September or November and March (which are the only months we reenact). It drops below freezing at night. Let me repeat that… BELOW FREEZING. That’s cold. You’ll want a great coat. Or you could purchase a wool lined leather jerkin (see below). But trust me, you will want something when the sun goes down. And you can’t wrap yourself in a blanket on a trench raid. And there is no spooning allowed in the Black Watch.
II. Leather Jerkin/Goat Fur Jerkin
The British introduced this garment around 1915. A loose sleeveless leather vest with a wool blanket lining and button front. Almost as warm as a great coat. Original WWII leather jerkins can be found on eBay. There is no real difference between the WWI and WWII versions. Either is good to go. Some of us have purchased the “shaggy goat jerkin” with wool blanket lining reproduced as a special order item by Steve McColgan. They’re perfect for cultivating that wild “Highlander” look. And they’re very warm. But they’re twice as much as a greatcoat. If you are interested, let me know and I’ll put you in touch with Steve.
II. Rain Cape or Ground Sheet
Issued in 1917, these are good for our 1918 impression. Early WWII, “khaki/brown” types, original or reproduction, are acceptable as well.
III. Gray Wool Blanket.
A WWI British issue blanket. Always gray. Some will have blue and red bars woven into the ends. Solid gray Civil War blankets are acceptable if they do not have the “US” embroidered or stamped on them.
UNIFORM-
I. Pattern 1902 Tunic (1907 Wartime Pattern)
The uniform tunic is a loose fitting wool garment with a "roll" collar, two patch pockets on the breast and two lower pockets on the skirts. The 1902 pattern coat went through several refinements until 1907 then remained unchanged throughout the First World War. The 1907 variant is often referred to as the “wartime pattern.” This is the pattern almost all vendors reproduce. Also we substitute the standard infantry Kings Crown buttons for Black Watch regimental buttons, which can be separately purchased from vendors as well.
(See the vendors page).
You may think that since we’re Highlanders we should have the “Scottish Pattern” cutaway tunic instead of the standard British Infantry type. You would be wrong. The cutaway tunic disappeared in the trenches by 1916 due to wartime shortages and re-supply limitations. All of our battles will take place in 1918 (so the Yanks can participate) and therefore we will stick to the British Infantry pattern.
II. Government Tartan Kilt (Black Watch)
This is the most unique and recognizable item of our impression. You can try to find a real 1940’s or 1950’s British Government MOD issue kilt on eBay or perhaps from a militaria dealer in England. However, they are hard to find and expensive. (By the way, the current issue British MOD kilts are for “walking out” only and are of lighter weight and wool/polyester. Not the same as the older, proper MOD heavy kilts. Avoid them.) So I’m going to strongly suggest you simply purchase a new “reproduction” kilt from Jerry Lee’s “What Price Glory.” They are excellent and cost $300.00. No one else reproduces them.
III. Khaki Kilt Cover
A canvas cover worn over your regimental kilt to protect it from mud, barbed wire, and the elements. It has a single flapped pocket on the front and ties at the waist for size adjustment. This is an essential piece of kit, and required in the trenches.
IV. British Grayback Shirt
The standard World War One gray woolen pullover shirt with white cotton facing worn by all British and most Commonwealth soldiers.
V. Tam O’Shanter With Red Hackle
Whenever you’re not wearing your helmet, you’ll wear this. A standard Khaki wool balmoral with a Red Hackle.
VI. Knee Socks & Red Garter Flash
As Highlanders we wear “long hose” with red “flashes” under the turn down. Alternatively, you could substitute “hose tops” (essentially a long knitted woolen tube) over regular socks, with the flash as above.
VII. Ankle Puttees
Highlanders wear the short ankle length puttees to cover our boot tops. We do not wear the long standard infantry puttees. We’re special.
VIII. Ammo Boots Black Pebble grain or smooth leather without a toe cap, or late war “rough outs” of the same pattern. Leather soles with hobnails. No rubber soles allowed. There are two sources for these below.
EQUIPMENT I. Pattern 1908 (P08) Web Gear
Waist Belt
Cross Straps--Braces
Left and Right Ammo pouches
Bayonet Frog
Helve Holder
E-tool Carrier
Small Pack
Water Bottle Carrier
Large Pack
Large Pack Straps
Water Bottle
E-tool and Helve (handle)
II. Brodie Helmet Any of the WWI pattern Brodie helmets are fine. Look for one with a good liner that fits your head. Leather support straps can be replaced.
III. No.1 Mk.III Enfield You will want either an Enfield No.1 Mk.III or a BAS Co. (licensed by Enfield) No.1 Mk.III, preferably wartime dated or earlier. Make certain the gun store you buy it from has certified it in “shooting” condition.
III.A. No.1 Mk.III Enfield Field Expedient Cleaning Tool This little item is an absolutely essential piece of kit to keep your Enfield functioning in the dirt and sand of the trenches. It’s called a “Shaving Brush.” Buy one, tie a cord around it and wear it round your neck so you’ll always know where it is. At our battle site, after about ten rounds your Enfield will thoroughly jam, rendering you useless and frustrated unless you keep wiping the bolt and breech clear of sand. Ask us how we know…
IV. Mills Web Gear Rifle Sling WW2 dated ones are fine and are identical to those of the First World War. Just make sure that you get one with brass ends. Stay away from the ones with blackened ends, those are post WW2 and wrong.
V. Water Bottle Blue enamel British water bottle with a khaki cover. That’s the proper Great War type. The green enamel water bottles are WW2 era. If you can’t find a Great War type, buy a WW2 era blue RAF canteen, cut off the blue/gray RAF cover and replace it with a reproduction khaki army one.
VI. E-tool and Helve (handle)
WW2 era ones are acceptable but you will need to make sure that the handle you get is early war. On the late war models the handle has a metal lug for the spike bayonet, so it can be used as a mine detector. Stay away from those, or cut the metal lug off.
VII. 303 Brit Charger Clips Each holds 5 rounds and will fit three to each pouch of the ammo pouches. So the total you can fit into the pouches is 30 (150 rounds).
VIII. Small Box Respirator and Bag
Standard canvas gas mask bag and respirator for our 1918 era events. Reproductions are available. You will need one. When the Germans launch “mustard gas” or worse, “chlorine gas” at us (yellow or green smoke grenades) you must put on your mask immediately or you are considered “killed.” And they really enjoy popping gas on us. A lot. Get a gas mask.
VIII A. PH Helmet (Hood Type)/PH Hypo Helmet (Hood Type)
These are both precursors of the Small Box Respirator. Reproductions are currently being manufactured by Man The Line. (see vendors). Small box Respirators are preferred for authenticity reasons (the PH hoods were rare or nonexistent by 1918) but these are less expensive and so we will consider them “acceptable” for events.
IX. Bayonet British Enfield Pattern 1907 Bayonet. You want the scabbard to have the tear drop lug. Look for one with a WWI production date (in addition to the “1907” pattern date that is stamped on all of them).
X. WWI Mess Tin And Mess Tin Cover
The "D" shape mess tin made from the 1850’s through WWI. This was standard issue to British troops. Reproduction mess tins and canvas covers are available.
Recommended but Not Required:
I. WWI British Great Coat A single breasted heavy wool coat with a back belt, two epaulettes, and two slash hand-warmer pockets. It’s very cold where we reenact in September or November and March (which are the only months we reenact). It drops below freezing at night. Let me repeat that… BELOW FREEZING. That’s cold. You’ll want a great coat. Or you could purchase a wool lined leather jerkin (see below). But trust me, you will want something when the sun goes down. And you can’t wrap yourself in a blanket on a trench raid. And there is no spooning allowed in the Black Watch.
II. Leather Jerkin/Goat Fur Jerkin
The British introduced this garment around 1915. A loose sleeveless leather vest with a wool blanket lining and button front. Almost as warm as a great coat. Original WWII leather jerkins can be found on eBay. There is no real difference between the WWI and WWII versions. Either is good to go. Some of us have purchased the “shaggy goat jerkin” with wool blanket lining reproduced as a special order item by Steve McColgan. They’re perfect for cultivating that wild “Highlander” look. And they’re very warm. But they’re twice as much as a greatcoat. If you are interested, let me know and I’ll put you in touch with Steve.
II. Rain Cape or Ground Sheet
Issued in 1917, these are good for our 1918 impression. Early WWII, “khaki/brown” types, original or reproduction, are acceptable as well.
III. Gray Wool Blanket.
A WWI British issue blanket. Always gray. Some will have blue and red bars woven into the ends. Solid gray Civil War blankets are acceptable if they do not have the “US” embroidered or stamped on them.
